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Кое-что еще об Италии

Самая красивая площадь Италии — это Piazza del Popolo в Асколи Пичено. Так считают все жители Асколи. Конечно, вы можете заявить, что они необъективны, но чтобы спорить аргументированно, придется сначала сюда приехать. И весьма возможно, что вы передумаете и согласитесь.

 

Раньше казалось, что для человека, живущего в другой стране, я довольно неплохо знаю Италию. Майская поезд­ка в провинцию Асколи Пичено ясно дала понять, что даже до весьма поверхностного знакомства еще очень далеко. И это скорее хорошая новость, ведь открывать для себя незнакомые места—одно из самых больших удовольствий в жизни.

Начнем с того, что даже название города Асколи Пичено было мне совершенно неизвестно. А ведь это столица одной из четырех провинций региона Марке и вообще довольно крупный населенный пункт. Город безусловно заслуживает внимания. Взгляните на ту самую Piazza del Popolo, похожую на просторную гостиную с мраморным полом, выпейте рюмочку анисовой настойки в старинном кафе Meletti, загляните во францисканскую церковь, спуститесь в крипту городского собора и полюбуйтесь прекрасными мозаиками, попробуйте знаменитые olive ascolane—гигантские зеленые оливки, наполненные фаршем из нескольких сортов мяса и обжаренные во фритюре,—погуляйте по узким улочкам и порадуйтесь, что в кои-то веки в Италии вам не приходится протискиваться сквозь толпу туристов.

Так что если вас раздражают наезженные маршруты, в Асколи Пичено вы будете чувствовать себя первооткрывателем и свободным путешественником. Каждый поворот дороги позволяет увидеть новый пейзаж: зеленые холмы, средневековые городки, лепящиеся к склонам, старинные виллы, скрывающиеся в ухоженных парках, тщательно возделанные поля, сады и виноградники.

Кстати, о виноградниках. Вот будь вы виноделом, как бы вы назвали свое вино? Джованни Ваньони, совладелец винодельни Le Caniette, долго не раздумывал. Счастливый отец трех прелестных дочерей, он дал своим белым винам их имена. Одно вино называется Veronica, другое—Lucrezia, а название третьего, с этикеткой, нарисованной рукой шестилетней девочки, такое: Io sono Gaia, non sono Lucrezia! («Меня зовут Гайа, я не Лукреция!»). Качество вина достойно красоты девушек, а панорама, открывающаяся из окон дегустационного зала, просто великолепна.

Вино, овощи, фрукты, сыры, оливковое масло, трюфели—в каждой деревне производят что-то особенное. Асколи Пичено—провинция сельскохозяйственная, и для гурманов здесь открываются просто невероятные возможности. Издается специальный справочник местных производителей, которым имеет смысл воспользоваться, чтобы купить уникальный продукт, а заодно и поддержать мелких производителей, потомственных фермеров и ремесленников, стойко противостоящих всеобщей стандартизации вкусов и запахов.

И наконец, не будем забывать, что Асколи—приморская провинция. Grottamare, San Benedetto del Tronto, Cupra Marittima и другие города «Пальмовой Ривьеры» (Riviera delle Palme)—достойные пляжные курорты со всем соответствующим антуражем: ласковым морем, мягким песком, зонтиками, кабинками, модными ресторанами и клубами, а также традиционным вечерним променадом. Даже не в сезон здесь довольно оживленно.

Так что если вам кажется, что Италия уже вряд ли вас чем-то удивит, что она битком набита туристами и вообще слишком популярна—приезжайте в Асколи. И запомните: центральная площадь Асколи Пичено—самая красивая в стране. Это не обсуждается.

 

Благодарим Торговую палату провинции Асколи Пичено и компанию COMITEL-Tour за организацию поездки.

 

Текст: Лина Селезнева

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